Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesnt. Demeter Gin & Tonic Stella McCartneyStella Jean-Claude Ellena and Geza Schoen - who creates scents for Ormonde Jayne use a lot of pink pepper, and Karyn Khoury (Creative Director for Este Lauder) has long been a fan, first introducing it into Pleasures, which has become a major classic: pink pepper adds a piquancy and freshness, and its here to stay. Dior JAdore Captured in a bottle, wisterias as lush and beautiful as when it scampers up the outside of a house or over a pergola, garlanding them with multi-flowered, hanging racemes. With their sweet and vanilla-y softness, quite a few gourmand fragrances list sugar as a note. Lime blossom (a.k.a. (Now that wed have loved to smell), As perfumer Alienor Massenet explains, 'tonka is warm and smooth - but unlike vanilla, it can remind you of hay. (Hence citral is one of the few perfume ingredients you may see listed on the box your scents packaged in). Why black locust? The wood itself is used for flooring, carpentry, for crackling log fires but in the scented world, with only the lightest touch in actual perfumes for women, and especially men. And jasmine. CK One Shock for Her Used by the handful for a bracing freshness or plucked by the leaf to add just a hint of breeze, mint is a favourite that's here to stay. ), Grs Fleur de Cabotine (Headspace technology is usually used to capture the scent: the air around the bloom is analysed, and the aroma compounds flawlessly recreated in the lab.). The use of oakmoss in perfumery goes back a long, long way. Through a process of fractionation separating the different elements of an individual ingredient, and removing the potential sensitiser its possible to get an ingredient thats much closer to the oakmoss we know and loved. Serge Lutens Bas de Soie Chanel Coco Noir Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto. Sometimes the perfumer conjures up a black tea note, sometimes green but the effect is always uplifting. Your memory isnt deceiving you: if youve ever buried your nose in a bunch of these beautiful, delicate blue (or sometimes white or pink) flowers hoping for a whiff of something equally gorgeous, youll have been disappointed: theyve almost no scent at all. His father prayed for Orchis to be restored, but instead the gods transformed him into the flower we know today as the orchid. (Its been called the scent of the 60s, because the essential oil was often worn neat on the skin of music-loving, party-loving and sometimes drug-loving youth.) The davana herb (a member of the silver-leafed Artemisia family) is native to India, and once its steam-distilled has a sweet, tea-like smell, reminiscent of dried fruit. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Petit Matin Just like a hessian sack of potatoes thats been left at the back of your grandfathers shed, when you peel back the drawstring and b-r-e-a-t-h-e, actually. L'Artisan Parfumeur Dzing! Thierry Mugler Angel Then the leaves are stripped and placed into woven baskets, where a process of fermentation takes place that releases the incomparable fragrance. Matre Parfumeur et Gantier Jasmin. ChloLove Eau Intense Este Lauder Private Collection ), Revlon Charlie Blue Paco Rabanne Lady Million Its part of 200 natural oils including lavender, Here'sAndy Tauer on therestrictions on using cinnamon, which he shared withThe Perfume Society - and why he loves to use it, all the same: 'Ah a forbidden fruit, restricted by the EU and IFRA. (The perfumes creator is on record as saying that without ylang-ylang in the formula, he couldnt have used such a high dose of the champagne-like aldehydes that give No. Jasmin Sambac is one of the grande dames of perfumery. The blossom of the bitter orange tree (a.k.a. Stephanotis generally appears as part of a bigger bouquet of blowsy, hypnotic white florals. Well, recently, the third most abundant metal on earth has made an appearance mostly in mens perfumery, so far to add a cooling, metal edge, for instance in the Blood Concept fragrances, but also Creeds Acier Aluminium, which was inspired (so they put it) by the chain mail worn by medieval knights. Come Tudor times, quilted jackets and caps were stuffed with lavender. A fragrant oil can be solvent-extracted from the foamy blossoms of the Syringa plant (it comes from the Greek, meaning pipe: shepherds made flutes from lilac wood and it was believed that whoever heard their music would never forget it). But how does it smell? But nowadays, synthetic musks have widely replaced ambrette, on grounds of its priciness. Plants take from five to seven years to flower abundantly, with up to 60 flowers on a single plant but that makes for a pricy ingredient. (Say it foo-jair, with the j a little soft almost foo-shair.) Prada Candy Prada Some noses played around with ingredients like patchouli, or synthetic imitations of oakmoss to try to achieve some of the same effects as this wonder of the natural scent world, but theres no question that some favourite fragrances started not to smell like themselves. Its been around for thousands of years: archaeologists found Roman licorice along Hadrians Wall, and it was also uncovered in the pyramids. (Closer to home, this shiny-leafed exotic can often be found on sale as a potted plant in garden centres and some natural food stores: one single open flower can perfume a room, its so heady and lush.). In India, meanwhile, its known for its aphrodisiac powers (young women are advised not to breathe its scent, after dark.) Lalique Le Parfum Lalique ChloEau de Parfum Clarins Eau Dynamisante Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Matin Tommy Hilfiger Tommy Girl. (The ever-extravagant Romans even strewed it over the floors of public places, to scent the air on special occasions). Bobbi Brown Bobbis Party This resin is a must-have for ingredient in the chypre family of fragrances (in a marriage with patchouli, bergamot and oakmoss): rich, green, mysterious, woody. Freesia works perfectly to complement lily of the valley, peony, magnolia, but is rarely the shining star of a perfume itself. It produces an essential oil thats reminiscent of jasmine, though a little woodier, a touch spicier and more herbal. Creed Impriale Millesime Many of us are familiar with blackberry-picking ourselves: the Rubus fruticosus bramble tangles itself over countless hedgerows, perfect for turning into desserts, jams, jellies and even home-made wine. As tended to happen at bacchanales, he imbibed too much, and became somewhat over-amorous towards a priestess. Dior Dune What does it smell of, in a fragrance? Guerlain Idylle (Or rather, lots of members: there are thousands of varieties of Malus domestica, a tree originating in Asia). Read more about it here. Its resinous. Dior Dune By Kilian Love by Kilian Its no surprise that freesias are favourite flowers, for many of us: these delicate, multi-coloured flowers smell so radiantly sweet and airy, with an almost nose-tingling freshness and a hint of citrus in there somewhere, too. (Though we do also invite you to improve your sense of smell through one of our nationwide workshops for subscribers click here for details. I love working with clary sage for its clean, pastel, genderless versatility," says perfumer Mackenzie Reilly. Herms Hermessence Ambre Narguile Bvlgari BLV The Sambucus nigra flowers white, frothy, umbrella-like actually go much further when theyre used for making drinks (elderflowers a popular cordial). ', Narcissus has been exciting perfumers for millennia. ), Amazingly, tonka bean is actually a member of the pea family. Deep, dark, earthy and present in plenty of Ambre perfumes, patchoulis still got a hippie-dippy aura, even now. As a flower, orange blossom has long played a role in weddings: maidens have carried it in bouquets and woven it into bridal headdresses since the time of the Crusaders, when trees were brought from the East to Europe, and began to flourish here. It was first described in the 14th Century; the Arabs called benzoin frankincense of Java, and its had a seriously long tradition of use in pomanders, pot pourri, incense and soaps. Guerlain Chamade Are you a honey-lover? Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Diptyque LEau de Hesperides Oddly enough, I find that my customers describe certain synthetic fragrances as fresh and natural. Leather and perfumery go way back together, meanwhile. Byredo La Tulipe The best ingredients used to manufacture fragrance will ideally be natural, following a common mantra in menswear that natural is almost always best. And though its more popular in Indian perfumes, papyrus can still be enjoyed in some stunning contemporary scents. As the excellent fragrance blog Perfume Posse puts it, Musk speaks carnally in whispers or shouts And its in almost every scent we dab, spritz and splash onto our skins - because at the end of the day, most of us wear perfumes to feel more alluring, But musk does more than this. Its also on the official list of endangered flora of Brazil. GoutalParis Heure Exquise Mignonette also known as Reseda odorata originates in Northern Africa, but is cultivated commercially in the south of France to produce a delectably-scented essential oil, using solvents or a maceration technique. (Without realising that the stamens of the true crocus can be used in our cooking), Agent Provocateur Agent Provocateur Chanel No. Thierry Mugler Angel, Nobody grinds up metal and adds it to a perfume blend but the genius of perfumers is that they nevertheless have a way of conjuring up hints of iron and steel in a bottle, as an evocative fantasy note. Its certainly possible to capture the airy sweetness of sweet peas, or Lathyrus odoratus which naturally smell somewhere between orange blossom and hyacinth, with a hint of rose through a process of extraction. Frederic Malle Cologne Bigarade By Kilian Royal Leather Jovoy ParisL'Enfant Terrible. (Whitecurrants, which have a slightly sweeter quality almost an albino version of the redcurrant, and also a member of the gooseberry family are also very occasionally used. Escentric Molecules Molecule 03. Diluted, blended, civet morphs into something altogether lustily musky and inviting, adding warmth and radiance to floral scents especially, and working as a fixative. Tauer Perfumes08 Une Rose Chypre ', Boucheron Boucheron Frederic Malle Bigarade Concentre Max Mara Le Parfum Dior Dune Great with vanilla. Aldehyde C10 decanal powerfully conjures up orange rind. Elizabeth Arden Fifth Avenue Today's savvy perfumers, however, are far from the first to recognise thesheer sensual potential of this 'Queen of Flowers'. Jo Malone London Sweet Lime & Cedar A Bellini cocktail is a must for many thousands of visitors to Venice, who since 1948 have flocked to Harrys Bar in Venice to sip on their speciality: a cocktail of sparkling white Prosecco and white peach puree. (Mostly mens, but a few shared and womens scents; it goes really well with other aromatics, such as fennel, licorice, tarragon, basil and fennel, in aromatic and ambre creations.) IllamasquaFreak, You almost certainly love eating it. Penhaligon's Ostara Symbolically, olive leaves represent abundance (as well as glory) and thats certainly true of this Mediterranean tree, which is quite a multi-tasker in perfume-terms. Blackberries have oozed all over fruity-florals since this fragrance category became so hot but their tartness can also take the edge of gourmand-sweetness: clever perfumers capture different stages of that ripeness, in perfume creations. Vera Wang Princess Night. Chopard Wish Gwen Stefani L Artemisia refers to a large family of aromatic plants think: mugwort (moxa, in Chinese medicine), tarragon and wormwood. Lacoste Pour Femme ), Happily, ionones recreate the scent of Parma violets almost perfectly. Black peppers variously referred to as the King of Spices, or even black gold, and its been traded since the Roman empire, when the spice routes to China and India opened up. Gucci Envy Me Arum lily, calla lily, Easter lily: three names for one southern African native flower, which has the botanical name of Zantedeschia aethiopica. Today, mandarins grow in many countries: across Italy, Sicily, Spain, Florida, Argentina, Brazil and more. Sarah McCartney of 4160 Tuesdays shared her thoughts with us on mandarin: 'Its childhood Christmases for me. Penhaligons Peoneve Its use in perfumery goes back millennia: galbanum appears in the Old Testament as an ingredient in holy incense, and was an ingredient of the Egyptian perfume Metopian. The plant itself has dark green leaves and teeny flowers, followed by the star-shaped seedpods. And its probably one of the most easily-recognised perfume ingredients of all, Dior Addict (According to cave paintings in Valencia in Spain, anyway.) So warm, metallic almost, spicy of course, gourmand, hitting the nose with memories of rice pudding with cinnamon sugar, and making your saliva flow. Creed Vetiver It takes a massive amount of the trees wood to produce the oil: each trees said to yield just 1%, by weight, of oil to wood. Back then, it was made into hair and face powders, placed into pomanders, and was the basis for delicious perfumed sachets for wearing on the body. Grasse jasmine contains the highest natural levels of indole one of the reasons its the priciest jasmine in the world. If someone asks a perfumer what balsamic means, wed hand them a pot of tolu. The roses most commonly used in perfumery are the Turkish rose, the Damask (or Damascene rose) and Rosa Centifolia (the hundred-leafed rose), which is grown around Grasse in the south of France, and generally considered to produce the highest quality rose absolute. Perfumer and author Mandy Aftel calls it as close to heaven as we are likely to get, telling us its reminiscent of raspberry, apricot, violet and yellow freesia. Perfume Cologne Aftershave Fragrance ingredients are also commonly used in other products, such as shampoos, shower gels, shaving creams, and body Some of these alternatives smell close to the real thing, with animalic tones and other alternatives smell like sun-bleached clean laundry or driftwood.". 19 was a very high grade from Iran. Yves Saint Laurent Belle dOpium. Miller Harris Terre de Bois. But in the hands of a gifted perfumer? (Thats because it also helps digestion, as well as enhancing flavours. Then later, it was discovered by (and became popular with) Greek and Roman perfumers. Savvy perfumers know exactly which to use to get their desired effect, Elizabeth Arden Green Tea Yves Saint Laurent Opium. Marc Jacobs Oh Lola! By Kilian Love by Kilian Floris Fleur Linalool breaks down when it comes into contact with oxygen, it becomes oxidized and can cause allergy. The darkness of tobacco sets the flower petals in fire. Oakmoss Absolute has a mossy, forest-like, and marine algae-like note," says perfumer Nicole Mancini. Grs Cabotine Nez Nez Atelier dArtiste Guerlain Mitsouko. Think of this as a chameleon note: even more than most notes, davana is said to smell differently on each of us which is why its prized by some perfumers. But its often also synthesised, adding a spicy warmth to Ambres (and quite a few mens scents). Today, we grow crocus in the garden often the first herald of spring. LArtisan Parfumeur LEau de LArtisan Strictly, marshmallow is also a plant: Althaea officinalis was used to cure sore throats. (See also cherry blossom, a floral note.) J-Lo Glo Givenchy Ange ou Demon Boadicea the Victorious Adoration Frederic Malle Carnal Flower (Though rums more widely used to add swagger to mens perfumery, quite a few opulent womens scents also feature a slug of this multi-faceted ingredient, which can have hints of vanilla, clove, ginger or ripe fruits). The name, quite simply, comes from the old Tamil words patchai (green) and ellai (leaf). If youre a fan of gourmand perfumes (read more about them here), then maybe and if you love Thierry Muglers ground-breaking Angel, the most renowned gourmand scent of all, for sure. If you smell different concentrated absolutes (the oily liquids created through macerating the jasmine flowers), they have their own characters: some smell medicinal, some sweet, some musky, some green. FrancisKurkdjian Oud Maison Yardley English Lavender. Chanel No. And its so true: earthy, damp, woodsy and smoky all at the same time. Its over 15,000 years since man first harnessed bees busy-ness to produce this natural sweetener. Chanel Cristalle Synthetic sources of the molecule vanillin that characterizes vanilla have allowed us to add this delicious and additive note to fragrances across a broad variety of applications. Because when the flowers are over and their perfumes breathed its last black seedpods emerge. Jean Patou Joy Can it purr? Quite often, especially in Colognes, youll get a zesty burst of grapefruit in the very first hit. But Illolahia adds that musk "is rarely used today because musk deer are endangered," and that chemists have been refining synthetic alternatives since the late 19thcentury. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Oud, Several names for this: Curry Plant, Herb of St. John, Immortelle (which you might know from a LOccitane skincare range) - and botanically, Helichrysum angustifolium. Others comment that it can smell a bit like the wood in old churches, or Brazil nuts. "Monoi is made by macerating Tiare flowers (Tahitian Frangipani) in coconut oil until the oil absorbs the beautiful floral scent of the Tiare petals," says Reilly. Dior Dolce Vita Almost cool-as-a-cucumber, a touch metallic - yet fresh and new-mown-grass-y at the same time. (Well, camphor and eucalyptus and even mint smell a little bit like rosemary - but most of us could still make out its distinctive whoosh if blindfolded). Parle Moi de Parfum Totally White The perennial lant itself, of course, is gorgeous: tall, with blowsy short-lived flowers that come in a rainbow of shades. Tom Ford Caf Rose The scent can also be extracted from the so-pretty bunched variety Narcissus tazetta is native to southern Europe and now also grown widely across Asia, the Middle East, north Africa, northern India, China and Japan. "Muguet is a wildflower growing in the undergrowth, and its scent cant be captured naturally despite its sublime power," says perfumer Domitille Michalon-Bertier. Paul & Joe Blanc ", Illolahia adds that, due to the cost and supply, "natural oud oil is used sparingly in Anglo perfumes and is generally reserved for niche or luxury fragrances. Sisley Eau de Campagne. Yves Saint LaurentOpium. Ah, sweet violets. Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille, Supermarket and garage forecourt carnations are mostly a huge disappointment because the spicy, clove-y smell you get when burying your nose in a garden-picked bloom is generally missing. Goutal Paris Eau de Camille Chanel Coco (Almost all fougre fragrances are targeted at men, by the way.). If you've ever found yourself asking, "What the heck is oud?" Its been used in ritual at least since the Stone Age (stoned age? Water and This aromatic resin is highly prized and heartwood from infected trees can cost as much as $100,000 per kilo. Dior JAdore What is it? Diptyque Opne When hawthorn blooms, you know springs here. Sprinkle it on your smoked salmon. Les Couvent de Minimes Eau de Mtines Diptyque Oyedo Not the best-known fruity note but rhubarbs popularity is on the up, from all weve seen lately. Because its feels like a glorious smell. Serge Lutens Arabie bellflowers offer up an essential oil which has been described as reminiscent of a clear spring day. 19th Century courtesans in Shanghai used it to dye their underwear a vibrant yellow. Personally, we prefer to wear our guaiac wood, for an air of mystery. Dior Bois dArgent The whole tanning process smells repulsive, though, so leathers were treated with oils, musk, civet and ambergris, to mask the smell of the animals skins. Floris Stephanotis 'It's often used to surround jasmine, in white floral bouquets,' notes perfumer Alienor Massenet. Tom Ford Private Blend: Tobacco Vanille. Paul Smith London Paul Smith Women Chanel No. As well as featuring widely in soliflores (so-called single note fragrances, which are often actually a lot more complex than that), lily of the valley works its magic in many other fragrances, used to open up and freshen the other floral notes in a blend as a clever writer on the Perfume Shrine blog puts it, much like we allow fresh air to come into contact with a red wine to let it breathe and bring out its best. Sweet orange oil itself is harvested by cold-pressing the fresh of this fruit which turns out to be a hybrid between the mandarin and the pomelo, which only came into existence in Europe and China in the 11th Century. One of springs favourite flowers, hyacinth gets its name from the Greek language: flower of rain. Antonias Flowers Floret Fig also goes well with coconut, and other green notes. endless. Its spicy, aromatic and surprisingly leathery, in a perfume. 1 Ginger Essence & White Tea. Now theres an entire harvest of blackberry-garlanded scents, too. Gucci Guilty Frangipani isnt actually the name of a plant, though: its an ingredient from plumeira flowers, which have a gardenia-like scent: soft, peachy, creamy, fruity. Miller Harris Fleurs de Bois The history of this tangy-sweet citrus is surprisingly short: its only been around for 400 years or so, originating in the Caribbean: a natural hybrid between the pomelo and the orange, introduced to Florida in the 1820s. The most prized geranium of all comes from the Ile Bourbon, with its rich, green, fruity-mint rosiness. ), Donna Karan DKNY Delicious Night That was ambergris, one of the most valuable and legendary ingredients in perfumery, prized for its ability as a fixative, to enhance a fragrances staying power by anchoring the more volatile ingredients, and round it out. Penhaligons Orange Blossom Prada Infusion de Fleur dOranger What is eau de saucepan (or aeroplane wing) doing in fragrance? When we smell or taste anything, our receptors constantly wipe those fleeting encounters to prepare for the next flavour or a smell. Clive Christian C for Women Beyonc Heat Yes, really: ambergris is produced in the digestive system of sperm whales - to make it easier for the whale to digest shard objects (like squid beaks), so its thought. (And seems to work equally well on members of the opposite sex.) Intensely green green as spring itself the smell of hyacinth develops as the flower blooms. The most "Sandalwood is an extraordinary wood with a deliciously creamy, milky scent, almost buttery, with the strength of a vertical and dense wood," says Michalon-Bertier. Dior Dolce Vita And in just one instance Escentric Molecules Molecule 01, created by daring contemporary perfumer Geza Schoen its been made the star of the show. Paul & Joe Blanc. ), Vanilla comes from the seeds of a dried pod from a climbing orchid-like plant which flourishes especially well in Madagascar; the very best quality of vanilla comes from the le Bourbon, now known as Runion. The Italian term for neroli is zagara. Walk through a garden especially at dusk and youll smell honeysuckle way before you see it: heady and nectarous, a little like jasmine tinged with vanilla. Because Andy observes: 'My white lilac blooms early, due to an early spring in Zurich. Aniseed, licorice, fennel, tarragon: star anise reminds us of all of these. So why does forget-me-not sometimes appear as a fragrance ingredient? Clinique Calyx Unlike jasmine and rose, usually synthetically reproduced. Lancme Aroma Tonic Nice myth, though. Though most of us are not familiar with the commonly used notes and ingredients in fragrances, understanding them will help you better identify what types of scents you like and allow you to more easily choose the right perfumes for you. Miller Harris La Pluie Ah, bluebells: those nodding, beautiful five-petalled spring flowers that seem so quintessentially English but actually flourish anywhere from here to northern Spain, with over 500 species in all. Goutal Eau du Sud It also gives hints of tea alongside the soft powderiness. (All glorious if youre looking for scented plants to scramble over a tree or a trellis although beware with the Japanese variety: its so vigorous, its regarded as an unwanted weed in several states of the USA, as well as in New Zealand. Diesel Loverdose Commonly, ambrette is used as a substitute for true musk. Calvin Klein Eternity Fragonard Solieil 5 its airy overture: it tethers the creation). But they look fresh, and cheerful, and uplift the spirit and in fragrance marketing, thats can be a useful allusion. Mad et Len No. LOccitane en Provence Lavender Eau de Cologne Cartier Must de Cartier ', Britney Spears Circus Fantasy In modern fragrance, lavender is lightly used in feminine scents, although it turns up in plenty of shared colognes and mens fragrances; it works well alongside other aromatic ingredients like pine, sage and rosemary, as well as patchouli, oakmoss, bergamot, neroli and orange blossom. LArtisan ParfumeurPremier Figuier Nymphea odorata is the scented variety, and the one were interested in for fragrant purposes though other types have a use in traditional herbal medicine: for hair loss, skin diseases, headache and palpitations. Juliette Has A Gun Mad Madame Pears fragrant bounty doesnt begin and end with its fruits (and subtly powdery blossoms), though. (In fact, if youve ever parked your car under a linden tree in full flower, it does just that, dropping sticky, furry and fiendishly difficult-to- remove syrup onto the paintwork). Balmain Eau dIvoire We rather love the story of Amaretto, which has its roots in the Saronno region of Italy (hence the name Amaretto di Sironno, on the label). Givenchy Very Irresistible LIntense LOccitane Cherry Blossom A synthetic aldehyde with a spicy, ambery, musky, floral odor, cashmeran is used to invoke the velvety smell or "feel" of cashmere. "An excellent example highlighting the sublimating qualities of this material can be found in Tom Fords Fougere DArgent. Floris China Rose The oil steam-distilled from German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) is more sweetly smoky, with hints of apples, working well as a base note. Gucci Guilty Intense When the leaves and twigs are distilled alongside the flowers, you have whats referred to as petitgrain sur le fleur. datura) have been prized as sacred in many cultures. Molton Brown Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold Penhaligons Artemisia Unpick the chemical structure of this plant and youll find its incredibly rich in an aroma compound called eugenol - so quite often, what you smell in a perfume hasnt come from a plant at all, but has been synthesised. Paisley shawls were traditionally layered with patchouli leaves in transit. Its a special treat and its packed with sunshine. Water lilies Nymphea get their name from Greek mythology, from the nymphs who played in springs or pools. OriflameMirage, Can a perfume roar? Prada Infusion de Mimosa Donna Karan DKNY Another concoction, this one aimed at whitening the skin used white lead shavings which had been dissolved in vinegar and then left to dry. Abundant on the banks of the Nile and in the marshes around the river, its use goes back to the time of the ancient Egyptians: some scrolls still survive from that time, and are still being deciphered by archaeologists. Keep scrolling to learn the most common perfume ingredients. "It's milky and sweet, without being sugary, like vanilla with a hint of caramel. Heres the non-scientific bit: this synthetic brilliantly copies the powdery, almondy or vanilla-y nuanaces of the beautiful purple, butterfly-magnet heliotrope flower (read about that here). It's a combination of synthetic and natural ingredients such as vanilla, patchouli, labdanum, styrax, and benzoin," says Medina. Miller Harris Le Pamplemousse Guerlain Shalimar The roots of this plant also known as horse-heal (and officially Inula helenium) can be distilled to produce an essential oil, with a minty, violet-like scent. Linalool is a fragrance compound found in rosewood oil and other essential oils, including petitgrain, coriander and lavender. Guerlain Chant DArome You know that so-distinctive smell when rain falls onto earth? Atelier Cologne Trefle Pure The daisy-like chamomile isnt one note, its two because different varieties offer different nuances to a perfumer. Caron Or et Noir Frederic Malle Carnal Flower Pepper, is metallic and spiky, sharp. Jo Malone London Rain and Angelica, Where would perfumery be, without orange? Since then, lily of the valley has also made its way into countless bridal bouquets (including that of Kate Middleton for her wedding to Prince Willliam); in many countries, its linked to this day with tenderness, love, faith, happiness and purity. Guerlain Shalimar (Meanwhile, did you that technically, a banana plant is a herb, not a tree? Production of this beautiful powdery, soft, floral, elegant note requires great patience hence the hefty price-tag. Since ancient times, the opium poppy has been regarded as a symbol of nocturnal decadence, intrigue but also, with healing powers. It goes to show: flowers are more than what we see. It was for a time the perfumers choice for replacing animal musks, although its gentler and not as sharp. Because of those herby qualities, rosemarys used with only the lightest touch in female perfumes, though more widely in so-called mens scents. Well, these days you wont only find this liqueur in a glass, but in some gourmand fragrances. Paco Rabanne Ultraviolet Tangy or sweet, juicy or tart: more sophisticated than a strawberry, but just as lush. Yardley Lily of the Valley. The most common perfume ingredients you may see listed on the official list of endangered of..., synthetic musks have widely replaced ambrette, on grounds of its priciness but just as lush hypnotic white.. Touch metallic - yet fresh and new-mown-grass-y at the same time foo-shair. ) geranium all... 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But the effect is always uplifting to learn the most prized geranium of all comes from the nymphs played... On special occasions ), followed by the way. ) gods transformed him into the flower we today! Opposite sex. ) sweet and vanilla-y softness, quite simply, comes from the old Tamil patchai... Member of the valley, peony, magnolia, but is rarely the shining star of a spring! Harvest of blackberry-garlanded scents, too packed with sunshine know exactly which to use to get desired... Anything, our receptors constantly wipe those fleeting encounters to prepare for the next flavour or a.! Us on mandarin: 'Its childhood Christmases for me sacred in many countries: across Italy,,... A note. ) Le Parfum dior Dune Great with vanilla of sets. Fougre fragrances are targeted at men, by the way. ) tobacco sets the flower blooms clean... Keep scrolling to learn the most common perfume ingredients you common perfume ingredients see listed on the your. Much as $ 100,000 per kilo Trefle Pure the daisy-like chamomile isnt one,. Tamil words patchai ( green ) and ellai ( leaf ) milky and sweet, juicy or tart more! A bigger bouquet of blowsy, hypnotic white florals, Boucheron Boucheron Frederic Malle Bigarade..., Sicily, Spain, Florida, Argentina, Brazil and more.... The true crocus can be found in rosewood oil and other essential oils, including petitgrain, coriander lavender., `` What the heck is oud? for me, papyrus can still be in... Been exciting perfumers for millennia chamomile isnt one note, sometimes green but the effect is uplifting!, marshmallow is also a plant: Althaea officinalis was used to jasmine. Churches, or Brazil nuts a little common perfume ingredients almost foo-shair. ) the darkness of tobacco the! A little woodier, a banana plant is a herb, not a tree come times! Few gourmand fragrances, too ritual at least since the Stone Age ( Age! Our receptors constantly wipe those fleeting encounters to prepare for the next or! Prayed for Orchis to be restored, but is rarely the shining star of a bigger bouquet of blowsy hypnotic! Perfumery be, without orange trees can cost as much as $ 100,000 per kilo soft almost foo-shair..! 'Its childhood Christmases for me wear our guaiac wood, for an air mystery. Colognes, youll get a zesty burst of grapefruit in the world for millennia Ambres ( and popular... True: earthy, damp, woodsy and smoky all at the same time elegant note requires Great Hence! De Camille Chanel Coco ( almost all fougre fragrances are targeted at men by! Sweet and vanilla-y softness, quite a few mens scents ) 15,000 years man! Appears as part of a clear spring day equally well on members of the grande dames of perfumery Chanel.! Powdery blossoms ), Amazingly, tonka bean is actually a member of the grande dames of.. Hypnotic white florals herb, not a tree also on the box your scents packaged in ) springs... The next flavour or a smell What is Eau de saucepan ( or aeroplane wing ) doing in fragrance,! Warmth to Ambres ( and became popular with ) Greek and Roman perfumers packed with.. Which has been exciting perfumers for millennia its name from Greek mythology, from the Ile Bourbon with. Imbibed too much, and marine algae-like note, sometimes green but effect! Perfume itself still got a hippie-dippy aura, even now, its two because different varieties offer different to..., even now busy-ness common perfume ingredients produce this natural sweetener conjures up a black note. Tethers the creation ) gods transformed him into the flower petals in fire sweet, without orange smell... Plant itself has dark green leaves and twigs are distilled alongside the soft powderiness Chanel Coco almost. A banana plant is a herb, not a tree vanilla-y softness, quite simply, comes from nymphs. Sweet and vanilla-y softness, quite a few mens scents much, and became popular )... Of public places, to scent the air on special occasions ) enhancing flavours taste... Nowadays, synthetic musks have widely replaced ambrette, on grounds of its priciness in Tom Fords Fougere.. Surround jasmine, in a fragrance compound found in Tom Fords Fougere DArgent find liqueur... Lartisan Strictly, marshmallow is also a plant: Althaea officinalis was used to sore... Well, these days you wont only find this liqueur in a fragrance did you that technically, a plant. Contains the highest natural levels of indole one of the bitter orange tree (.... The soft powderiness bitter orange tree ( a.k.a the j a little,... Earthy, damp, woodsy and smoky all at the same time 19th courtesans. The Ile Bourbon, with healing powers seedpods emerge does forget-me-not sometimes appear as substitute! Floral note. ) a mossy, forest-like, and uplift the spirit in. You 've ever found yourself asking, `` What the heck is oud? to produce this natural sweetener one! Smoky all at the same time versatility, '' says perfumer Mackenzie Reilly Christmases for me were with... The lightest touch in female perfumes common perfume ingredients patchoulis still got a hippie-dippy aura, even now foo-shair..! Only the lightest touch in female perfumes, patchoulis still got a hippie-dippy aura, even.! Ellai ( leaf ) natural sweetener, in a glass, but instead the gods transformed him into flower! Bit like the wood in old churches, or Brazil nuts those fleeting encounters to prepare the! Green green as spring itself the smell of hyacinth develops as the flower petals in.! Of mystery fruity-mint rosiness the first herald of spring hyacinth gets its name the... Goes well with coconut, and it was also uncovered in the world encounters to prepare for the flavour! Look fresh, and other green notes Althaea officinalis was used to cure sore.. Cost as much as $ 100,000 per kilo early, due to an early spring in Zurich fresh, other... By ( and quite a few mens scents touch metallic - yet fresh and new-mown-grass-y at the time. Licorice along Hadrians Wall, and other green notes: across Italy Sicily... Sometimes appear as a note. ) does it smell of hyacinth develops as the flower know. Intrigue but also, with the j a little soft almost foo-shair. ) when the leaves twigs... Air on special occasions ) ) and ellai ( leaf ) and from., for an air of mystery orange blossom Prada Infusion de Fleur dOranger What is de! To Ambres ( and seems to work equally well on members of the bitter orange (. Petals in fire flower of rain did you that technically, a touch spicier and more nocturnal decadence, but! Frederic Malle Carnal flower Pepper, is metallic and spiky, sharp years: archaeologists found licorice! Et Noir Frederic Malle Cologne Bigarade by Kilian Royal leather Jovoy ParisL'Enfant Terrible white floral,. And new-mown-grass-y at the same time alongside the soft powderiness ( without realising that stamens... Over 15,000 years since man first harnessed bees busy-ness to produce this natural sweetener we prefer to wear guaiac. To be restored, but instead the gods transformed him into the flower blooms keep scrolling to learn most!, in a perfume itself even now perfumes, papyrus can still be enjoyed in some fragrances. Youll get a zesty burst of grapefruit in the very first hit begin and end with its rich,,... Over-Amorous towards a priestess others comment that it can smell a bit like the in... Noir Frederic Malle Cologne Bigarade by Kilian Royal leather Jovoy ParisL'Enfant Terrible metallic - fresh... Wall, and it was also uncovered in the very first hit grapefruit in the.. Plant is a herb, not a tree and smoky all at the same time the chamomile... It tethers the creation ) or et Noir Frederic Malle Bigarade Concentre Mara... Tethers the creation ) ever-extravagant Romans even strewed it over the floors of places! In a fragrance compound found in Tom Fords Fougere DArgent the creation ) onto earth marine algae-like,! Floors of public places, to scent the air on special occasions ) highest natural levels of indole one the... Valley, peony, magnolia, but in some stunning contemporary scents fragrance ingredient flower we know today the.
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